2020 Domaine Pierre Usseglio et Fils l’Unique VdF Rouge, Rhone

Moving to the reds, the 2020 Vin De France L'Unique is a mix of varieties vinified and aged all in concrete. Lots of black raspberry and strawberry fruits as well spice and floral notes emerge on the nose, and it’s medium-bodied, has fine tannins and tons of fruit, and is just straight-up delicious.

Jeb Dunnuck jebdunnuck.com April 2022

This domaine, located in the village of Châteauneuf du Pape, has built a solid reputation over the years as producing rich, ripe red wines, so it's interesting to see that Thierry Usseglio and his son, Gregory, are experimenting with the use of whole bunches and an entirely new wine style that combines a large proportion of white grapes and use of amphorae. One of the nice things about the 2020s at this estate is that there is a clear delineation of quality throughout the range, a distinction that has been blurred somewhat in past vintages. I'm not sure if it's a deliberate attempt at this on their part or just a product of the vintage, but it is a welcome development. And fans of the rich, ripe style here need not worry about the wines' taking a different tack, they just come across as a bit more refined and elegant than in the past.