2020 Domenico Clerico Barolo Aeroplanservaj, Piedmont

The 2020 Barolo Aeroplan Servaj offers a bright and elegant fruit profile with tart fruit, blackcurrant, spice, cola, licorice and candied orange peel. It feels ironed out and smooth, folding softly over the palate initially yet ending with firm structure and framing. This wine normally represents a selection of fruit from Baudana in Serralunga d'Alba (planted in 1994), but the big change this year is that Aeroplan Servaj only sees fruit picked in the coolest parts of the vineyard.

This year's tasting of Domenico Clerico's releases was exhilarating and full of surprises. Winemaker Oscar Arrivabene and winery owner Giuliana Viberti have made an important decision in terms of winemaking that has radically changed the taste profile of these wines for the better. They have abandoned small oak barrique for the most part and embraced more reductive 5,000-liter oak botti instead. The change is immediately identifiable, as the seamless quality of the oak integration is apparent upon your first sip. Other little tweaks to maintain freshness have also been made. For example, the 2020 Barolo Aeroplan Servaj draws its fruit from the coolest side of Baudana in Serralunga d'Alba. My favorite wine, which stands out for its brightness and nuanced elegance, is the restyled 2020 Barolo Bussia Bricotto. Among all these new releases from 2020 in this report, Domenico Clerico has been among the most successful in terms of interpreting the vintage. However, I am reminded that it was a difficult growing season. Indeed, 2020 had so many challenges that it inspired a switch over to organics.

96 points robertparker.com

Domenico Clerico Barolo is a masterful expression of Nebbiolo from one of Piedmont’s most revered winemakers. Based in Monforte d’Alba, Domenico Clerico was a pioneer of modern Barolo, celebrated for his dedication to showcasing the nuances of the region’s terroir. His eponymous Barolo serves as an exceptional introduction to his portfolio, offering a beautifully balanced combination of power, elegance, and approachability.

The Nebbiolo grapes for this Barolo are sourced from a selection of the estate’s vineyards in Monforte d’Alba, where the calcareous clay soils and optimal south-facing exposures contribute to the wine’s richness and depth. The vineyards are meticulously managed to ensure low yields and high-quality fruit, capturing the essence of the Monforte terroir.

In the winery, traditional techniques are seamlessly blended with modern precision. Grapes are hand-harvested and undergo fermentation with extended maceration in stainless steel, a process that enhances the wine’s aromatic complexity and structure. Aging occurs in large Slavonian oak casks for 24-30 months, followed by additional time in bottle to achieve harmony and refinement.

In the glass, Domenico Clerico Barolo displays a deep garnet color with ruby highlights. The nose is enticing, with layers of ripe red cherries, wild berries, and dried roses, complemented by notes of licorice, tobacco, truffle, and a hint of spice. On the palate, it is full-bodied and structured, with fine-grained tannins and vibrant acidity supporting flavors of dark fruit, savory herbs, and earthy minerality. The finish is long and elegant, making it a wine that can be enjoyed now with decanting or cellared for 10-15 years to develop further complexity.

This Barolo pairs beautifully with traditional Piedmontese dishes such as braised beef (Brasato al Barolo), wild mushroom risotto, or tajarin pasta with truffle. It also complements roasted meats and aged cheeses, offering a versatile and luxurious dining experience.