2020 Domenico Clerico Barolo Aeroplanservaj, Piedmont

The 2020 Barolo Aeroplan Servaj offers a bright and elegant fruit profile with tart fruit, blackcurrant, spice, cola, licorice and candied orange peel. It feels ironed out and smooth, folding softly over the palate initially yet ending with firm structure and framing. This wine normally represents a selection of fruit from Baudana in Serralunga d'Alba (planted in 1994), but the big change this year is that Aeroplan Servaj only sees fruit picked in the coolest parts of the vineyard.

This year's tasting of Domenico Clerico's releases was exhilarating and full of surprises. Winemaker Oscar Arrivabene and winery owner Giuliana Viberti have made an important decision in terms of winemaking that has radically changed the taste profile of these wines for the better. They have abandoned small oak barrique for the most part and embraced more reductive 5,000-liter oak botti instead. The change is immediately identifiable, as the seamless quality of the oak integration is apparent upon your first sip. Other little tweaks to maintain freshness have also been made. For example, the 2020 Barolo Aeroplan Servaj draws its fruit from the coolest side of Baudana in Serralunga d'Alba. My favorite wine, which stands out for its brightness and nuanced elegance, is the restyled 2020 Barolo Bussia Bricotto. Among all these new releases from 2020 in this report, Domenico Clerico has been among the most successful in terms of interpreting the vintage. However, I am reminded that it was a difficult growing season. Indeed, 2020 had so many challenges that it inspired a switch over to organics

96 points Monica Larner robertparker.com

Barolo, born from the overwhelming desire of Domenico to try his hand in new adventures, the “wild aeroplane”, as he used to be called by his father, in 2006 he chose to branch out from the town of Monforte and strike out in a new territory: Serralunga D’Alba.

The Domenico Clerico Barolo Aeroplanservaj is a bold and captivating expression of Barolo, crafted in the heart of Piedmont. Domenico Clerico, one of Barolo's most revered modernist winemakers, created the Aeroplanservaj as a tribute to his adventurous spirit and innovative approach to Nebbiolo. The name, translating to "wild airplane" in Piedmontese dialect, reflects Clerico's willingness to push boundaries while respecting the heritage of Barolo winemaking.

The fruit for this wine is sourced from prime vineyards in Monforte d’Alba, known for their clay and marl soils that impart structure and depth to the Nebbiolo grapes. Meticulous vineyard management ensures only the best fruit is selected, while a combination of traditional and modern techniques in the winery enhances the wine’s complexity and elegance.

The Aeroplanservaj undergoes fermentation in stainless steel, followed by aging in French oak barrels. This approach integrates the intense fruit character with refined oak influences, creating a Barolo that is both powerful and nuanced.

On the nose, the wine offers an expressive bouquet of red cherry, raspberry, and plum, layered with rose petals, licorice, and hints of tobacco and spice. The palate is structured and full-bodied, with firm yet silky tannins and flavors of dark berries, truffle, and earthy undertones. A vibrant acidity provides balance, leading to a long, persistent finish that reveals the wine's exceptional aging potential.

Ideal for cellaring, the Domenico Clerico Barolo Aeroplanservaj will continue to evolve over 15-20 years, developing greater complexity and finesse. It pairs beautifully with rich dishes such as braised short ribs, wild game, or mushroom risotto, making it a standout choice for special occasions.