2020 Domenico Clerico Pajana Barolo, Piedmont

Pale ruby color and intense floral nose of fresh violets, roses, bergamot-like citrus character, pomegranate and sweet spices. The attack is soft, with velvety tannins on the mid-palate, a full body and crisp, melted acidity. A bit of sternness in the finish with notes of cherry pits. A lot of good matter here. Enjoyable now, but will improve with aging. Optimum drinking at 10 years.

96 points jamessuckling.com

Domenico Clerico Pajana Barolo is a powerful and polished expression of Nebbiolo, crafted from one of the most prestigious vineyards in the Barolo appellation. Produced by Domenico Clerico, a legendary figure in modern Barolo winemaking, this single-vineyard wine highlights the estate’s philosophy of showcasing the distinct terroirs of Monforte d’Alba, one of Barolo’s most acclaimed villages. Pajana is a cru within the renowned Ginestra vineyard, known for producing Barolos with richness, structure, and extraordinary aging potential.

The Pajana vineyard lies at an altitude of approximately 300 meters, with south-facing slopes that capture abundant sunlight. Its calcareous clay soils contribute to the wine’s bold tannins, deep complexity, and mineral undertones. The meticulous care taken in the vineyard ensures low yields, enhancing the intensity and concentration of the Nebbiolo grapes.

The winemaking process reflects a balance of tradition and innovation. Grapes are hand-harvested and undergo fermentation in stainless steel tanks with extended maceration to extract Nebbiolo’s full character. The wine is then aged for 24-30 months in French oak barriques, followed by additional time in bottle before release. This aging process lends the wine its polished texture and subtle integration of oak.

In the glass, Domenico Clerico Pajana Barolo reveals a deep garnet hue with brick reflections. The nose is captivating and multi-layered, offering aromas of ripe black cherries, plums, and dried roses, interwoven with notes of leather, licorice, tobacco, and a touch of espresso. On the palate, it is full-bodied and velvety, with fine-grained tannins and vibrant acidity supporting flavors of dark berries, cocoa, spice, and earthy truffle. The finish is long, complex, and impeccably balanced, showcasing the finesse and power of the Ginestra terroir.

This Barolo is an excellent companion for hearty dishes such as braised short ribs, venison stew, or truffle-infused risotto. It also pairs beautifully with aged cheeses like Castelmagno or Parmigiano-Reggiano. While approachable with decanting in its youth, this wine will reward cellaring for 15-20 years, evolving with greater nuance and depth over time.