2020 Greywacke Wild Ferment Sauvignon Blanc Half Bottle 375ml, Marlborough

Medium yellow, youthful appearance. Smoky matchstick oak and reduction aromas, crushed rocks too, the sulfides dominate somewhat, but there is good sauvignon fruit when you look for it. Concentrated, rich, lots of power, amplitude and impact. Warmth of alcohol is part of the persistence. 16 FEB 2023 Drink 2023–2031

95 points Huon Hooke therealreview.com

Kevin Judd founded Greywacke after working as chief winemaker and later general manager at Cloudy Bay for (by my estimate) 24 years before launching his own brand. Judd is, in my estimation, the country’s top specialist wine photographer. The genesis for Greywacke Wild Sauvignon was Cloudy Bay Te Koko; a funky, barrel-fermented sauvignon blanc that bent all the rules when it was made in 1992 and initially sold only through the cellar door.

Greywacke Wild Sauvignon is a blend from 10 different Marlborough vineyards which are machine-harvested at night. After pressing the juice is settled before being pumped into mostly old barrels and fermented using indigenous yeasts (about 15-20 different strains). The wine undergoes a partial malolactic fermentation and lees stirring (which reduces buttery characters).

A feature of Greywacke Wild Sauvignon is the distinctive mineral, struck flint, struck match characters that vary in intensity from vintage to vintage. Judd acknowledges the role of wild yeast fermentation and the use of solids in the formation of sulphides, which are controlled to some degree by controlling the level of solids in fermentation.