2020 Guilhem & J-Hugues Goisot Cotes d’Auxerre Gondonne Bourgogne Blanc, Burgundy

Fine and fresh, not showing any particular oak today. More density but still a freshness and mobility of flavour. Broad and concentrated but never heavy – there’s more material here and it’s very long. I’d also leave this in the cellar a while or carafe but it’s a very super wine!

Bill Nanson, Burgundy Report

Biodynamic. Single vineyard Chardonnay. La Gondonne lies on denser soils of blue clay, marl and limestone. Here the vines are a massale selection made from cuttings taken from the Les Clos holdings of the Raveneau and Dauvissat families who have close ties to the Goisot clan. In Gondonne, you find lots of the exogyra virgula fossils (small, comma-shaped, limestone fossils) so famous in the Yonne area. It’s an excellent site that typically produces the most complex, kaleidoscopic wine of the three single vineyard releases. It is also the most structured wine in the cellar. The Goisot family feels that this is the closest that the Côtes d’Auxerre gets to the Le Clos Grand Cru of Chablis, which is why they planted the cuttings from this famous Chablis site in this spot.