2020 Lethbridge Dr. Nadeson Riesling Biodynamic, Geelong

After time away from sourcing riesling from Henty, Ray Nadeson is back with a new source from the region and renewed zip in his winemaking step. You can understand why. The energy on display is thrilling; rapier-like acidity matched with a quiet depth of fruit intensity. Lemon zest, lime, apple, nougat saline and don't forget the spice. All humming along in off-dry unison. And still so, so young.

95 points Jeni Port winecompanion.com.au

Not surprisingly, the site at Lethbridge was selected based on scientific principles such as soil type, degree days and other climatic indicators, yet when the three partners first explored the property they discovered an ancient old wooden fermentation vat in one of the old sheds. Discussion with the previous owner (Ivor Perdrisat) revealed that his family, Swiss in origin, had planted a vineyard on the exact site back in the 1870's before the discovery of phylloxera in the region. The old wine vat has been reincarnated as a beautiful timber tasting bench in the cellar door. This story is compelling in the connection between traditional wisdom and modern science.

Delicious Riesling can grow in many locations, but Henty is one of the greats.

Ray has made Riesling from Henty since 2004, sadly in 2014 the Barrett's Vineyard was pulled out and the source of fruit was lost.