2020 Orin Swift Mannequin Chardonnay, Russian River

The Californians certainly do Chardonnay their own way and here is a smart example of what West Coast Chardonnay is all about. However with fruit from some of its cooler parts, including the Sonoma Coast, Russian River Valley and Santa Lucia Highlands, this wine is a little more subtle than the usual local style.

It’s the colour of polished gold, thanks to its partial aging in New French Oak, which is followed by luscious ripe fruits – nectarine, peach and pineapple all wrapped up in a vanilla blanket of oak, dusted with malt. It’s then dry, voluptuous and creamy, driven by warming alcohol and tropical fruits with just a twist of acidity right on the finish. It is a thick and vicious style of chardonnay with generous power and length – a great introduction to what Californian Chardonnay has to offer.

93 points Angus Hughson winepilot.com

The Orin Swift Mannequin Chardonnay from California’s Russian River Valley is a bold, opulent white that reflects the signature Orin Swift style – lavishly textured, fruit-driven and complex. Founded by Dave Phinney in the late 1990s, Orin Swift is famous for its daring blends, modern winemaking, and striking label art, and the Mannequin Chardonnay is no exception. Sourced from premier sites across the Russian River and other cooler subregions of Sonoma, it blends richness and freshness, delivering a wine that is as dramatic as it is delicious.

In the glass it shows golden straw hues. The bouquet is intense and layered, with ripe pear, baked apple and pineapple interwoven with lemon curd, vanilla, jasmine and toasty oak. The palate is full-bodied and unashamedly rich, with waves of stone fruit, melon and citrus framed by creamy oak, spice and a touch of butterscotch. Lees ageing adds weight and texture, while a streak of acidity keeps the wine balanced. The finish is long, powerful and satisfying, echoing with fruit and savoury spice.

Food pairings match its richness and power: butter-poached lobster, roast chicken with truffle butter, creamy pasta dishes, or a mushroom gratin. It also stands up well to stronger cheeses such as aged Gouda or blue. Best enjoyed within 8 to 10 years, when the wine develops deeper layers of honey, hazelnut and toast.