2020 Paul Jaboulet La Chapelle Hermitage Magnum 1.5L, Northern Rhone

While still a terrific wine that has come in at the upper end of my barrel-sample rating, I must confess to a modest level of disappointment in the 2020 Hermitage La Chapelle. On the nose, it's gently cedary, with crushed stone and pencil shavings accenting dark, plummy fruit, plus mocha, earth and black olives. It's full-bodied but not that rich or concentrated, with an open-knit feel and a shortage of energy and drive on the finish. Collectors may want to enjoy this over the (relatively) near term while waiting for their more-promising 2019s to mature.

Between my hectic schedule of visits and Caroline Frey's racing around to direct harvesting in Switzerland, Burgundy, the Rhône and Bordeaux, we were unable to connect in person this year. She deputized Robin Jullian, a former cellar hand turned export manager, to taste through the wines with me. The style of the white wines has changed somewhat, although Jullian pointed out that they're actually more like they would have been in the distant past. Picking dates appear to have been moved forward, and the wines are seeing much less oak than in recent history. The 2020 Hermitage Le Chevalier de Sterimberg, for example, is completely unoaked, aged exclusively in concrete. I confess I had some difficulties grappling with this, writing in my notes at one point, "Nothing resembling Hermitage as we understand it." The reds were more consistent with my expectations, with the 2019s looking particularly strong and cellar-worthy here, and the 2020s (from barrel) being softer and more elegant.

93-95 points Joe Czerwinski robertparker.com

The flagship 2020 Hermitage La Chapelle was bottled in June and, as usual, comes mostly from the Le Méal lieu-dit but also includes portions from Bessards as well. Deep purple-hued, with wonderful notes of crème de cassis, graphite, incense, and spice, it hits the palate with medium to full-bodied richness, a supple, elegant texture, fine tannins, and a great finish. It doesn't have the sheer density or power of, say, the 2010 or 2015, but it shines for its purity and balance and is a gorgeous Hermitage. While the Maison Bleue is more opulent and expansive, this is the long-distance runner. Give bottles 4-6 years at a minimum and enjoy over the following two decades.

95+ points jebdunnuck.com