2020 Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva Ovello, Piedmont

Ovello is by far Produttori del Barbaresco’s most important cru. Eleven members cultivate 20 hectares on both sides of the ridge – southeast- and southwest-facing. Exposed to the cold air from the north with calcareous soil rich in clay, it typically gives a robust, potently structured expression. While true to its terroir, the 2020 harnesses some of that power making for a harmonious though sturdy whole. Grilled herbs, savoury dark earth, and dense and ripe dark cherry are all held together by well fastened chalky tannins. This is one for the cellar.

94 points Michaela Morris decanter.com

The 2020 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello is a massive, packed wine. Graphite, crushed rocks, dried herbs and cedar open first. Ovello tends to produce a more linear style of Barbaresco, and that is very much the case here as well. However, the 2020 also possesses notable depth and layers in the mid-palate. It's a gorgeous wine in the making

94 points Antonio Galloni vinous.com

The Ovello vineyard has some northern exposures and generally represents a cooler growing site. You can expect intense fruit flavors and more prominent tannins as a result. The Produttori del Barbaresco 2020 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello fits the bill. Vine growth starts much later and usually lasts longer to produce dark intensity and bold aromas in the wines. In the cold years, the tannins can be aggressive, but in the hot years like 2020, they show better balance. This wine offers ferrous notes of iron and rusty nail followed by cherry-driven sweetness.

95 points Monica Larner robertparker.com

Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva Ovello from Piedmont is one of the most distinctive and celebrated expressions of Nebbiolo in the entire Barbaresco appellation. Known for its firm structure, lifted aromatics, and long ageing potential, Ovello is often the most classically built and savoury of all the Produttori’s nine single vineyard Riservas, and it is a must have for serious collectors who appreciate traditional, long lived Italian reds.

The Ovello vineyard sits high above the village of Barbaresco, stretching across a broad, sun exposed ridge with a cool breeze influence from the nearby Tanaro River. Its soils are a classic mix of limestone and clay but with a slightly sandier texture compared to other crus, which gives Ovello its trademark elegance and fine tannins despite its robust frame. The higher altitude and exposure mean slower ripening, resulting in Nebbiolo with vivid acidity, intense aromatics, and refined power.

Produttori del Barbaresco, established in 1958, has built its reputation on preserving the traditional methods of Barbaresco winemaking. The Riserva program, where Ovello features as one of the jewels, is only produced in the best vintages. Fermentation is carried out in concrete with long maceration, and the wines are aged for thirty six months in large Slavonian oak casks, allowing each vineyard’s unique character to shine without oak dominance.

In the glass, Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva Ovello bursts with aromas of red cherry, dried rose petals, licorice, mint, and earthy spice. The palate is structured and vibrant with a core of juicy red fruits, fresh acidity, firm yet polished tannins, and a long savoury finish laced with mineral complexity. It is a Barbaresco that demands time to show its full beauty but rewards patience with stunning evolution, often peaking two decades or more after release.

Perfect with slow braised meats, wild mushroom risotto, or aged cheeses like Castelmagno or Parmigiano Reggiano, Ovello is a benchmark Nebbiolo for those who appreciate wines of tension, depth, and classical form.