2020 Rob Dolan Signature Series Chardonnay, Yarra Valley

From the Willowlake vineyard in the Upper Yarra. Whole-bunched pressed to French hogsheads and aged in 30% new French oak, 10% mlf. A luminous green gold. Reticent at first, this blossomed with a few minutes in the glass to reveal aromas of perfectly ripened nectarines and white peaches, grilled cashews and attractive (not overdone) reductive, struck-match notes. Gently textured, this silky and persistent wine is tightly structured and while it's totally enjoyable now, there's little doubt another six to 12 months will see it improve further.

96 points Philip Rich winecompanion.com.au

Rob Dolan Signature Series Chardonnay from the Yarra Valley is a refined, cool-climate white that blends modern Australian restraint with classic winemaking detail. This is the flagship Chardonnay in the Rob Dolan range, made from the best parcels across the Yarra, where higher elevation sites and well-drained soils bring clarity, drive and minerality to the fruit. It’s a serious wine, but not one that shouts — more elegance and length than overt oak or cream.

The fruit is hand-picked and whole-bunch pressed before undergoing wild fermentation in French oak, with around 30 percent new barrels used for structure and complexity. The wine undergoes partial malolactic fermentation and spends time on lees with stirring to build texture. A focus on precision and balance, aims to showcase the regional detail rather than power or showy oak.

In the glass, it opens with aromas of white peach, lemon curd, flint, almond meal and a flicker of struck match. The palate is pure and finely textured, with citrus and stone fruit at the core, layered with a savoury edge and a bright, mineral finish. There's a creamy, lees-driven softness through the mid-palate, wrapped around a spine of vibrant acidity.

Food pairing: Ideal with roasted chicken and tarragon, grilled kingfish, scallops with cauliflower purée, or a leek and gruyère tart. It also works beautifully with triple cream Brie or aged Comté.

Cellar potential: Drinking well now but will evolve over 6 to 8 years, developing nutty complexity and added depth with age.