2020 Roches Neuves Bulles de Roche, Loire Valley

Biodynamic. The fruit for this delicious sparkling comes from a range of biodynamic parcels in Saumur alongside a vineyard in Le Puy-Notre-Dame (an appellation only for red wines). It's a blend of 90% Chenin Blanc, with the remainder split between Cabernet Franc and Chardonnay.

The fruit was picked quite late for sparkling—when ripe and full of character—then whole bunch-pressed and naturally fermented in a mix of stainless steel and barrels formerly used for the Insolite cuvée. In the bottle, the wine was then aged for around 18 months on lees before being disgorged with no additions (zero dosage). In short, it’s a Saumur méthode traditionnelle—à la Germain. It has the character, deliciousness (there's that word again) and class to leave a great many Champagnes in the shade. Expect a layered yet super-mineral, chalky white with a salty, bone-dry finish. A joy to drink, with texture and length to back it up.