2020 Thymiopoulos Blanc de Coteaux, Naoussa Macedonia

Apostolos Thymiopoulos has become one of the defining winemakers of modern Naoussa, transforming his family's organically farmed vineyards into wines prized for their energy, transparency and unmistakable sense of place. While his reputation was forged with Xinomavro, Blanc de Coteaux reveals another side of Naoussa, drawing on high-altitude vineyards to create a fascinating northern Greek white with texture, freshness and distinctly Mediterranean personality.

The 2020 vintage has had time to move beyond youthful fruit into something more savoury and complex. Naoussa's elevation, cooling mountain influence and varied limestone-rich soils help preserve acidity, while Thymiopoulos' restrained approach in the cellar allows the wine to develop breadth without losing its freshness. This is not a simple, breezy white; there's real shape and intrigue here.

Golden straw in colour, the nose unfolds with ripe pear, quince and preserved lemon alongside chamomile, wild herbs and fresh almond. With air come hints of beeswax, fennel seed, crushed stone and gentle spice. The palate has lovely weight and texture, combining orchard fruit and citrus peel with savoury herbal notes and bright acidity. There's a slightly waxy richness through the middle before a long, dry finish of salted almond, lemon oil and stony minerality.

This is crying out for food: chargrilled octopus with lemon and oregano, whole roasted snapper, chicken souvlaki with tzatziki, spanakopita or grilled halloumi with honey and thyme. I'd be particularly tempted by the octopus — those smoky edges, lemon and herbs would be glorious with the wine's savoury, textured personality.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2030.