2020 Vincent Pinard Sancerre Nuance, Loire Valley

From 40 year-old vines grown on Caillottes terroir (small stones over limestone) in Bué, selected from the vineyards of La Thibaude, Les Garennes and Les Grands Champs, Nuance is one of the domaine’s ‘Premier Cru’ wines. The fruit is hand picked, hand sorted and then whole-bunch pressed to tank for a cool, slow fermentation over about 4 weeks. The wine is aged on fine lees for 9 months in equal portions of stainless steel tanks, older barriques and demi-muids (600 L). This shows a big step up in texture and intensity, with a hint of smokiness on the nose and fine chalky minerality on the palate.

The 2020 Sancerre Nuance hails from chalky soils. It offers a succulent and soft welcome, but its the combination of gently refreshing acidity and the fine chalky texture that sweeps the mouth in an almost swirling motion and reassures the drinker. The fruit is both savoury and ripe with peach barley and the meerest lick of boxwood. Fades a little quicker than I’d like. Drink 2023-2030.

91 points Rebecca Gibb MW vinous.com July 2022

Vincent Pinard Sancerre Nuance is a beautifully restrained, site expressive Sauvignon Blanc that shows the quieter, more thoughtful side of Sancerre. The fruit comes from vineyards around Bué, one of the most respected villages in the appellation, where limestone rich soils dominate. This calcareous terroir is the backbone of great Sancerre, bringing structure, mineral drive and a savoury edge that lifts the wine well beyond simple aromatics.

The Pinard family has been farming in Bué for generations, and Vincent Pinard is widely regarded as one of the region’s most precise and terroir focused producers. Viticulture is organic in practice, yields are kept low and the cellar work is deliberately gentle. Nuance is fermented and aged in a mix of large oak and older barrels, adding texture and depth without overt oak character. It is Sauvignon Blanc made with patience and intent.

In the glass, the wine is subtle and layered. Citrus peel, white peach and green apple are joined by notes of fresh herbs, flint and crushed stone. The palate is dry and finely structured, with chalky texture and a long, saline finish. There is freshness, but it is measured and composed, allowing the vineyard character to take centre stage.

This is a superb food wine. It shines with oysters, grilled fish, goat’s cheese, or dishes with herbs and citrus. It will drink beautifully now, but it also has the structure to evolve over five to ten years, gaining more savoury, smoky complexity while retaining its mineral core. A benchmark modern Sancerre that rewards attention and time.