2021 Aphelion Brini Grenache, McLaren Vale

An exploration of Blewitt Springs, likely the finest subregion for the finest grape in the country – grenache. A single site in the northeast corner on sandy loams. 100% whole-bunch wild fermentation. Pressed to large-format (600L) oak where it remained for 10 months. Very pinot-like. Sandalwood, bergamot, camphor, sapid sour cherry, lapsang and Asian spiced-plum notes drive across a patina of herb-flecked tannins, all skeletal and fibrous. This is very fine. The plumpest of these single-site expressions, yet the most complete.

96 points Special Value Ned Goodwin MW winecompanion.com.au

Aphelion Brini Grenache is a beautifully expressive McLaren Vale Grenache that leans into finesse, perfume and site rather than sheer power. The fruit comes from old bush vines in the Blewitt Springs zone, one of McLaren Vale’s most prized Grenache terroirs. Here, deep sandy soils over ironstone and clay produce wines of fragrance, fine tannins and natural elegance, a very different expression to the richer valley floor styles.

Aphelion is the project of Rob Mack, a thoughtful and quietly obsessive winemaker whose background includes time at Gemtree and a deep respect for old vines and gentle handling. Brini is named after a family connection and represents a more delicate, refined take on Grenache. Rob’s approach is all about minimal intervention, careful extraction and allowing the vineyard to do the talking. Whole berries, restrained oak and patience are key to the final shape of the wine.

In the glass, Brini Grenache is perfumed and inviting. Red cherry, raspberry and wild strawberry lead, followed by rose petal, dried herbs and a subtle savoury spice. The palate is medium bodied and silky, with fine, powdery tannins and bright acidity giving lift and flow. There is depth and length, but everything feels light on its feet, finishing long and gently savoury rather than sweet or heavy.

This is a Grenache that shines with food. It works beautifully with roast lamb, grilled pork, Mediterranean vegetables, duck or mushroom based dishes, and it is especially good with herb driven cooking where its fragrance really comes alive. While immediately appealing for its freshness and charm, Aphelion Brini Grenache also has the balance to age gracefully over the medium term, gaining complexity and savoury nuance with time.

Aphelion Brini Grenache captures the modern McLaren Vale mood perfectly. Old vines, thoughtful winemaking and a focus on elegance over excess. It is expressive, refined and quietly compelling, showing just how special Blewitt Springs Grenache can be.