2021 Arnaud Lambert Saumur Breze Clos David, Loire Valley

Breze is on the rise, today producing some of the most arrestingly mineral, intense Chenin Blanc on the planet. For at least 500 years, these vines produced some of the most profound wines of France. They were regularly exchanged, barrel for barrel, with Chateau d’Yquem, the nectar like sweet wine from Bordeaux that sells for thousands of dollars a bottle. They were a favourite at Versailles under the Sun King, Louis XIV. Today, out of 400 hectares (980 acres), only 4 producers are bottling wines as Breze, accounting for about 10% of the vineyard area.

Arnaud Lambert has 21 hectares, and makes stunning single vineyard whites from Clos du Midi, Clos David and Clos de la Rue. These are precise crystal sharp wines in their youth, with enough snap to shock the tongue, butnstill possess the weight and resonance to expand and slightly soften with age. The reds come from Clos de L’Etoilenand Clos Mazurique. While differences in each vineyard lead to wines of distinctive character, Lambert’s style arcs toward grace. His wines are stripped down and elemental, ripped with acidity and verve. They plug into the electricity of Breze’s limestone soils.

Rajat Parr The Sommelier’s Atlas of Taste

100% Chenin Blanc from a 1.3 ha north-east facing site planted in 1965 on light sandy soil over limestone. Whole-bunch pressed, the free-run juice is fermented with natural yeast in 50% in aged foudres and 50% in barrel (15% new). Matured on fine lees in 2-3 year-old barrels for 12 months, then blended and further matured in tank for six months..