2021 Burklin-Wolf Forster Pechstein GC Riesling, Wachenheim Pfalz

Bürklin's 2021 Pechstein G.C. shows a deep, pure, intense and saline, very complex and elegant bouquet of concentrated tropical fruit aromas intertwined with flinty, iodine and citrus aromas. Pure, very intense and concentrated on the palate, this is a full-bodied, rich, iodine-inflected and stimulatingly saline Pechstein with fine tannins and a long, dense, complex and tensioned finish. 12.5% stated alcohol. Tasted at the domaine in November 2022.

"2021 is a classic German vintage," says Steffen Brahner from Bürklin-Wolf, remembering the cool spring with its late flowering. The summer months brought abundant rainfalls, which challenged the vineyard crew, as even more attention and precision with the vegetation was required than in a dry year. "On the other hand, after three consecutive dry years, the periodic rainfall did the soils of the Mittelhaardt good to compensate for the pronounced water deficit." A similarly wet autumn forced them into meticulously early negative selection, and then they proceeded on a vineyard-by-vineyard basis in order to achieve the ideal ripeness of the grapes. This obviously paid off, and Bürklin was able to harvest healthy, ripe and flavorful grapes in all of the vineyards. When I tasted the premier and grands crus for the first time in August this year, I was still a but reserved since the wines were dense and compact but also still caged in their phenolic grip and firm structure. Some months later, in November, the wines had slightly opened up and showed promising qualities, especially in the Kirchenstück, which is again one of the most magnificent dry Rieslings produced in Germany that year. Unfortunately it is very rare and highly expensive, Pechstein and Ungeheuer are more highlights of the 2021 vintage. I also took the chance to taste the 2020 crus, which come from a much warmer and sunnier vintage represented in full-bodied, rich and concentrated but also structured and in the best cases—Pechstein and Kirchenstück again—also tensioned wines. As always when tasting the young and the previous vintage side by side, the sympathy is with the younger. Time will reveal which is the greater vintage: the lean and classic or the richer one.

96+ points Stephan Reinhardt robertparker.com

Very smoky and flinty, this is very concentrated and precisely structured with the mineral energy driving this along at a racy clip. Stunning fruit intensity on the substantial mid-palate, then a very long and graceful finish with a ton of basil character. From biodynamically grown grapes. Vegan. Drinkable now, but best from 2024.

97 points Stuart Pigott JamesSuckling.com August 2022

Pechstein translates to Pitchstone and refers to the high volcanic basalt content in the soil. These basalt fragments retain heat long after sunset, helping to provide extra warmth to the vines. Located in the village of Forst, Pechstein was one of the five top-rated sites in the 1828 Classification. Dr Bürklin-Wolf owns 1.71 hectares hectares. Replanted in 1978.