2021 Capel Vale Whispering Hills Riesling, Mt Barker Geographe

If ever there was a variety that was able to mainline the dirt in which it was grown, it would have to be riesling. The general lack of winemaking input (oak, bâtonnage, mlf, etc) allows the grape to speak of the environment it was raised in – in this case, the Whispering Hill vineyard in Mount Barker. The wine is pure, layered with graphite and minerals, lemon zest and apple skins. The acidity is seamlessly inlaid into the fruit; at no point does it veer off course. It is zesty and pert, leaving little deposits of salt and brine on the tongue as it makes its way through to memory. A wonderful wine.

95 points Erin Larkin winecompanion.com.au

Capel Vale Whispering Hills Riesling is a pristine and expressive white wine sourced from Capel Vale’s cool-climate Whispering Hills vineyard in the Mount Barker subregion of Western Australia’s Geographe wine region. This site benefits from cold nights and long, sunlit days, a perfect recipe for slow ripening and beautifully retained natural acidity — exactly what Riesling thrives on.

The wine opens with a heady bouquet of freshly squeezed lime, white blossoms, and a hint of wet slate. It’s intensely aromatic without being overwhelming. On the palate, it’s taut and dry, yet bursting with juicy citrus flavours — think Meyer lemon, lime zest, and a touch of green apple — all riding on a spine of racy acidity and crushed-stone minerality. There’s a fine line of phenolic texture that adds grip and complexity, making it more than just a thirst-quencher.

The winemaking is deliberately restrained, with a focus on preserving varietal purity. Fermentation in stainless steel and early bottling capture the vibrancy of the fruit and the pristine character of the site.

Food pairing: a dream with freshly shucked oysters, Thai prawn salad, or grilled sardines with lemon. Also lovely with Vietnamese rice paper rolls or pan-fried dumplings.

Cellar potential: while drinking beautifully now, this Riesling will age gracefully for up to 10 years, developing notes of honey, toast, and marmalade with time.