2021 Cherubino Riesling, Great Southern

35/33/32% Porongurup/Frankland River/Mount Barker. This is very restrained, almost subdued – the combination of subregions has drawn a little from each: the coiled power of Frankland, the muscle of Mount Barker and the florals of Porongurup. It is all viewed through the lens of the cool 2021 vintage, making for very delicate drinking. Ripe Eureka lemon, nashi pears, brine and juniper.

93 points Erin Larkin winecompanion.com.au

Cherubino Riesling from the Great Southern is a crystalline, site driven expression of one of Western Australia’s great cool climate regions. Frankland River fruit typically sits at the core of this wine, grown on ancient gravelly soils over ironstone where low rainfall, cool nights and long ripening seasons produce Riesling of intensity, purity and natural drive. Cherubino is led by winemaker Larry Cherubino, one of Australia’s most respected modern winemakers, whose deep understanding of Western Australian terroir has seen him champion the Great Southern as a world class Riesling address. His approach is all about precision and restraint, letting site and season do the talking.

In the vineyard, fruit is picked early to preserve acidity and aromatic lift. In the winery, handling is minimal. Gentle pressing, cool fermentation in stainless steel and no oak allow the wine’s purity and regional character to shine. It is a classic, uncompromising Riesling style that values line, tension and longevity over softness or sweetness.

The aromatics are vibrant and sharply defined. Lime zest, lemon blossom and green apple leap from the glass, followed by white florals and a faint talc like note. Beneath the citrus sits a distinct mineral edge of wet stone and crushed quartz, a hallmark of Great Southern Riesling. With time, subtle notes of grapefruit pith and kaffir lime leaf begin to emerge.

The palate is taut, precise and mouthwatering. Intense citrus flavours of lime juice, lemon curd and green apple are driven by piercing natural acidity that gives the wine incredible energy and length. The texture is fine and linear, finishing dry and stony with a lingering saline edge that leaves the mouth refreshed and ready for another sip. While thrilling in its youth, this Riesling is built to age gracefully for ten to fifteen years, developing classic toast, honey and kerosene characters while retaining its core citrus drive.

A superb match for oysters, sashimi, grilled fish, spicy Asian dishes, fresh goat’s cheese or simply as an aperitif. Cherubino Riesling is a benchmark Great Southern white, pure, focused and unapologetically built for lovers of serious dry Riesling.