2021 Croix & Courbet Arbois En Chemenot Savagnin Ouillé, Jura

100% Savagnin (ouillé). The Arbois lieu-dit of En Chemenot lies just east of the village (Domaine des Cavarodes have a Poulsard from the same site). A north-facing hillside plot at 350 meters elevation, here the soils are blue and grey marl. The Savagnin was planted in 2004 and the vineyard is managed using both organic and biodynamic methods. Courbet is delighted with the quality coming off these vines (a portion of which is also used for the Côtes du Jura blend).

The winemaking here was similar to the Côtes du Jura—hand harvest, natural yeasts, low sulphur, etc. This cuvée was vinified 90% in cement egg tank and 10% in a one-year-old barrel; Croix likes the tension and minerality the egg brings to the density of this vineyard’s fruit. And tension is again the word. On the nose, there’s lifted green pear and ginger spice, honeysuckle too: really inviting, leading to a linear palate draped in citrus, pithy and saline nuance. Then, there’s a cool hint of fresh cucumber, pink salt, and some classy lees again. Long and driven, it’s a wine that loves air (and food). Give it a good decant. It was (by the way) pH 3.1 after malo! Again, any seafood, Comté or other hard cheeses, or roast chicken and grilled pork chops would make for terrific matches.