2021 Domaine Theulot Juillot Mercurey Rouge 1er Cru La Cailloute, Burgundy

This 1.73-hectare vineyard, originally acquired by Nathalie’s grandfather, is a Theulot Juillot monopole and lies above Les Croichots. The domaine makes red and white from this terroir, the latter from a band of grey marlstone abutting the forest at the top of the vineyard. The red is drawn from two parcels on thickish red clay over hard oolitic limestone. The first parcel, planted in 1979, brings finesse, while the second—planted only a year later—delivers the structure and colour.

The sum of these parts is this domaine’s most sophisticated red: a smoky, plummy red Burg with ripe flesh and billowing texture to go with the structure we always expect from a top Mercurey. Jasper Morris writes that this wine is “noted for its variations on a theme of cherry flavours”. In 2021, said cherries are ripe and delicately spiced, with a side order of succulent freshness and flavoursome length worthy of the domaine's top red. Little wonder Nathalie Theulot calls this cuvée mon chouchou, an affectionate French nickname for someone dear to you.