2021 Domaine Theulot Juillot Mercurey Vieilles Vignes Rouge, Burgundy

This old-vine cuvée is drawn from three lieux-dits with an average age a shade over 50 years. Les Montelons sits at the top of the Mercurey slope at 300 metres on beige marl, bringing tightly packed fruit and freshness. Sheltered from the wind in the centre of the village, Le Clos Laurent brings earthiness and opulent dark fruit, while Les Vaux, in a deep valley to the north of the town at around 250 metres, provides both density and bite. The sum of the parts is Mercurey’s answer to Gevrey-Chambertin. Everything is destemmed in the winery, and most of the wine spends 12 months in barrel (around 20% new) with a small proportion remaining in tank for this vintage.

The attack here is more intense than the 2021 Millerandage Rouge. It is juicy and well-built with lots of summer berry and blueberry pie flavour, alongside liquorice nuance and hints of spice from the classy oak. It’s a more vibrant and balanced release than last year’s fruit bomb, yet there is plenty of old-vine depth and structure to warrant a good stretch in the cellar.