2021 Egon Muller Kanta Riesling, Adelaide Hills

Fruit was hand picked and whole-bunch pressed, without any additions. Wild fermented to dry. Lees handling provides additional nourishment. Tight, steely, sulphurous and limey upon opening. The bane of screw cap. An aggressive swoosh liberates camphor, orange bitters and cumquat. The fly of chalky salinity, juicy acidity and Meyer lemon pucker, serves as the lattice, the stage, to drive this delicious wine into a long future.

94 points Special Value Ned Goodwin MW winecompanion.com.au

Egon Müller Kanta Riesling is a fascinating and quietly thrilling chapter in the story of one of the world’s greatest Riesling producers, transplanted to the Adelaide Hills. Kanta is a small, cool site in Lenswood, perched at altitude and defined by cold nights, long ripening and naturally high acidity. It is one of the rare Australian vineyards that truly speaks the language of Riesling with clarity and restraint rather than weight.

This wine is a collaboration between Egon Müller IV of the legendary Scharzhof estate in the Saar and viticulturist vitner Ulrich Langguth, with fruit sourced from the Kanta Vineyard. Egon Müller does not lend his name lightly, and his involvement brings a very specific philosophy. Precision, patience and an almost reverential respect for site. The goal is not to make an Australian version of Mosel Riesling, but to allow Adelaide Hills terroir to express itself through a lens of restraint and purity.

In the glass, Egon Müller Kanta Riesling is all about tension and detail. Aromas of lime blossom, green apple, white peach and citrus zest are lifted by a distinctly cool mineral edge. The palate is fine and linear, with vibrant natural acidity carrying delicate fruit and a subtle savoury undertone. There is no excess, no gloss, just clarity and poise. The finish is long, dry and mouth watering, with a sense of quiet confidence rather than showiness.

This is a Riesling that excels at the table. It pairs beautifully with oysters, sashimi, shellfish, roast chicken or lightly spiced Asian dishes where its acidity and purity really shine. It is also a superb aperitif for those who love freshness and finesse over power.

Cellar potential is an important part of the story. While compelling young for its brightness and precision, Kanta Riesling will reward patience, developing layers of citrus oil, toast and savoury complexity over the medium to long term, much like the great Rieslings of the Adelaide Hills are known to do.

Egon Müller Kanta Riesling is not about prestige or volume. It is about curiosity, collaboration and a shared belief that great sites, treated gently, can produce something truly special. A rare and collectible Australian Riesling with an unmistakable sense of calm, purity and class.