2021 Egon Muller Scharzhofberger Kabinett Riesling, Mosel

Wonderful honeysuckle and jasmine aromas pour from the glass of this very racy and crystalline Kabinett. As sharp and bright as a samurai sword, each swirl of the glass reveals new aromas, sushi ginger and dill only being the most obvious. Drink or hold.

 94 points jamessuckling.com Aug 2022

Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Kabinett Riesling is one of the most celebrated and instantly recognisable wines in the world of fine Riesling. Scharzhofberg sits above Wiltingen in the Saar, a dramatic bowl of blue and grey slate that has been revered since the 1800s. This is a cool, wind swept site that produces wines of incredible lift, precision and inner energy, often described as floating rather than powerful.

The Müller family has farmed the core of Scharzhofberg for generations, and Egon Müller IV is widely regarded as the greatest custodian this vineyard has ever known. His approach is famously restrained. Old vines, painstaking hand harvesting and spontaneous fermentations are matched with an unhurried élevage that allows the wine to find its own balance. Kabinett is treated with the same respect as the grandest Auslese or Trockenbeerenauslese, and it shows.

This Kabinett is all about finesse and clarity. Aromas of green apple, white peach, lime zest and delicate florals rise from the glass, layered with crushed slate and a subtle smoky note. On the palate it is light, vibrant and beautifully detailed. The gentle sweetness is perfectly countered by piercing Saar acidity, giving a sense of freshness and tension that makes the wine irresistibly drinkable. The alcohol is low, the texture is silky, and the finish is long, cool and quietly complex.

Scharzhofberger Kabinett is famously versatile at the table. It is superb with spicy Thai or Vietnamese dishes, sushi, shellfish, roast chicken or pork, and it also works effortlessly as an aperitif. Few wines manage to deliver such delicacy while still offering so much character and depth.

While Kabinett is often enjoyed young, Egon Müller Kabinett is built to age. These wines can evolve gracefully for twenty years or more, developing notes of citrus oil, spice, savoury complexity and that haunting petrol character that collectors treasure, all while retaining their energy and freshness.

Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Kabinett Riesling is a masterclass in restraint and balance. Light, thrilling and endlessly elegant, it shows why Scharzhofberg remains one of the greatest Riesling vineyards on earth.