2021 Egon Muller Wiltinger Braune Kupp Kabinett Riesling, Mosel

Very striking nose of tangerine with touches of orange blossom, fresh tarragon and mint. Juicy and vibrant on the surprisingly generous palate. Long, zesty finish with a touch of citrus pith character underlining the very animating acidity. Drink or hold.

93 points jamessuckling.com Aug 2022

Egon Müller Wiltinger Braune Kupp Kabinett Riesling is one of the purest expressions of the Saar and a perfect window into why this estate is so revered. The fruit comes from the famous Braune Kupp vineyard in Wiltingen, a steep south facing slope of grey slate overlooking the Saar River. Compared to the broader Mosel, the Saar is cooler and more restrained, producing Rieslings of remarkable delicacy, rapier like acidity and an almost floating sense of balance.

The Müller family has worked these vineyards for over two centuries, and Egon Müller IV is widely regarded as one of the greatest Riesling producers in the world. His approach is famously hands off and deeply traditional. Old vines, meticulous vineyard work, natural fermentations and an unhurried cellar philosophy allow the vineyard to speak with complete clarity. Kabinett is not treated as a lesser wine here. In many ways it is the most honest and most joyful expression of the site.

This Kabinett is all about freshness and precision. Aromas of green apple, white peach, lime zest and spring flowers sit alongside a cool slatey minerality. On the palate it is light, vibrant and utterly refreshing, with gentle sweetness perfectly countered by mouth watering Saar acidity. The alcohol is low, the texture is silky, and the finish is long, crisp and quietly complex. It feels effortless yet deeply satisfying.

Braune Kupp Kabinett is incredibly versatile at the table. It shines with spicy Thai or Vietnamese dishes, sushi, shellfish or simple roast chicken, and it is equally at home as an aperitif. Few wines manage to be this light and this complex at the same time.

While Kabinett is made for early enjoyment, Egon Müller Kabinett is in a different league when it comes to ageing. These wines can evolve beautifully for fifteen to twenty years, gaining subtle savoury notes, citrus oil and that distinctive petrol nuance that collectors adore, while never losing their energy.

Egon Müller Wiltinger Braune Kupp Kabinett Riesling is a masterclass in restraint and precision. Delicate, thrilling and endlessly drinkable, it shows that true greatness does not need weight or power to leave a lasting impression.