2021 Fetherston Estate Syrah, Yarra Valley

A single-vineyard wine, fermented wild and matured in French oak (25% new). A medium garnet. Starting to show some secondary aromas with its bouquet of raspberry compote, freshly turned earth, bracken and dried herbs. The palate is mid-weight, well balanced and with gentle tannins that signal this is a wine to be consumed and enjoyed now and over the next three to four years.

90 points Philip Rich Halliday Wine Companion August 2024

Single vineyard wine from the stunningly beautiful Malakoff vineyard in the hills of Landsborough (Pyrenees, Victoria) using fruit from the Old Block clone syrah vines that originated at Best's of Great Western. Fermented wild as 100% whole berries before being pressed to French oak barriques (25% new). Matured for eight months before bottling in December 2021.

Vibrant garnet in colour, the aromas show dark berries, tobacco, violets and white pepper. On the palate there are juicy plums, blackberry bramble, liquorice and some fine tannic grip to give the wine drive and focus.

From the cooler reaches of the Yarra Valley, Fetherston Estate is quickly gaining attention for wines that lean into finesse and site expression, and Syrah is a natural fit here. With a focus on minimal intervention and thoughtful vineyard work, the estate aims to capture a more Northern Rhône inspired style, where spice, perfume and structure take precedence over sheer weight.

The Yarra’s long, cool growing season allows Syrah to ripen slowly, building aromatic complexity while retaining a fine line of acidity. The result is a wine that feels lifted and detailed, a very different expression to the richer styles found in warmer regions.

Deep ruby in the glass, the aromatics are beautifully perfumed. Blackberry and dark cherry sit alongside cracked pepper, violet and a touch of olive tapenade. There is a savoury edge, with hints of spice and earth adding depth.

The palate is medium bodied and finely structured, with dark fruit carried by silky tannins and a line of freshness that keeps everything poised. Pepper and spice build through the mid palate, while a subtle savoury note lingers through the finish. It is elegant and composed, with more emphasis on length and detail than power.

This is a natural partner for food that brings out its savoury side. Roast lamb, grilled meats with herbs, or dishes with a touch of spice all work beautifully. It also pairs well with earthy flavours, where its complexity can shine.

Drinking beautifully now, though it will evolve over eight to twelve years, gaining further savoury and spicy layers.

There is a quiet confidence here, a Syrah that reflects both the cool climate of the Yarra and a thoughtful, restrained approach, offering a more refined and nuanced take on the variety.