2021 Francois Chidaine Clos de Breuil Montlouis, Loire Valley

Chidaine’s Clos du Breuil is a Montlouis treasure: a single three-hectare site that slopes towards the Loire. It is home to some of Chidaine's oldest vines—the original plantings are approaching 100 years old. A stone’s throw from Clos Habert, Clos du Breuil rests on one of the appellation’s highest points. The soil is clay and coarse flint over a subsoil of limestone—what the locals call perruches. Chidaine’s vines are spread across several plots and the fruit is hand-harvested with several tris. It ferments naturally in 620-litre demi-muids over a period of up to 11 months. The 2021 is a real beauty—super pure, vibrant, and electric, with textured stone fruit shrouded in the typical smokiness that this site gives. It finishes taut and chiselled, gliding like a skater’s blade on virgin ice. At least the equal of any wine Chidaine has released from this site.