2021 Franz Haas Lagrein, Alto-Adige

A youthful and blue-fruited red with blueberries, lavender and black plums on the nose, with a touch of sage. Medium-bodied and textured, with broad, creamy tannins. All about the fleshy berry fruit. Drink now.

91 points jamessuckling.com

Franz Haas Lagrein from Alto Adige is a bold, deeply coloured red that captures the dark-fruited power and savoury elegance of this historic northern Italian variety. Lagrein has been grown in the region for centuries, but in the hands of Franz Haas — one of Alto Adige’s most respected and innovative producers — it’s elevated into something more refined, structured and age worthy, without losing its rustic soul.

The grapes are grown on warm, sunlit slopes near Egna and Montagna at moderate altitudes, where the days allow full phenolic ripeness and the nights preserve freshness. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel, followed by ageing in a combination of large oak casks and barriques to polish the tannins while keeping the fruit front and centre.

Aromatically it opens with black cherry, wild plum, violet, cocoa and hints of black pepper and dried herbs. The palate is full bodied and structured, with firm but ripe tannins, flavours of blackberry, dark chocolate, tobacco and a touch of smoked earth. There’s a balancing lift of acidity that keeps the wine vibrant and savoury through a long, dry finish.

Food pairing: perfect with braised beef, venison stew, grilled sausages, mushroom polenta or aged alpine cheeses. Also a great match for smoky eggplant dishes or wild boar ragù.

Cellar potential: drinking well now with decanting, but will develop beautifully over the next 8 to 12 years, gaining notes of leather, spice and forest floor.