2021 Giacomo Brezza Barolo, Piedmont

The straight 2021 Barolo from Brezza has lovely scents of red berry, blue flower and a whiff of eucalyptus. Polished and still quite young, the racy palate offers red cherry, strawberry and star anise before a black tea close. Taut, refined tannins provide lithe support while bright acidity keeps it well balanced. Give this time to fully develop. Drink 2029-2036. Abv: 14%

93 points Kerin O’Keefe January 2025 

The Brezza family has been making wine in Barolo since the late nineteenth century, with their estate occupying a special place in the village's winemaking history. Today, Enzo Brezza continues the family's traditional approach, favouring organic vineyard practices, gentle extraction and ageing in large oak casks rather than small new barrels. The wines are admired for their purity, restraint and ability to express Nebbiolo without unnecessary embellishment. Their classic Barolo is a wonderful introduction to the estate, although there is nothing particularly introductory about its quality.

Drawn from vineyards in the Barolo growing area, this is a traditional expression of Nebbiolo, shaped by the region's limestone rich soils and the long, temperate growing season. The 2021 vintage is widely regarded as an outstanding year in Barolo, producing wines with excellent aromatic definition, freshness and beautifully structured tannins. Brezza's patient, understated approach suits the vintage particularly well, allowing the fruit, earth and savoury detail to develop naturally.

Bright garnet red with the delicate brick reflections typical of Nebbiolo. Fragrant red cherry, raspberry and dried violet lead the aromas, followed by orange peel, liquorice, anise and a subtle earthy character. The palate is finely structured and energetic, with vibrant red fruit, firm but beautifully shaped tannins and refreshing acidity. Hints of dried flowers, tobacco and savoury spice emerge as it opens, while the finish is long, mineral and pleasantly grippy. This is classic Barolo, more concerned with elegance and detail than sheer power.

Wild mushroom risotto, porcini tagliatelle or roasted eggplant with tomato and Parmigiano would make excellent partners. Duck breast with cherries, slow cooked lamb with rosemary or aged Piedmontese cheeses would also work beautifully. A little time in the decanter will reward anyone opening a bottle young, although patience in the cellar promises an even more interesting experience.

Cellaring: Drink 2028 to 2042. Approachable with aeration now, but the structure and balance of the 2021 vintage suggest that several years in the cellar will be well rewarded.