2021 Guilhem & J-Hugues Goisot Cotes d’Auxerre Gondonne Bourgogne Blanc, Burgundy

Guilhem and Jean Hugues Goisot Côtes d’Auxerre Gondonne Bourgogne Blanc is one of the most compelling white wines from the northern edge of Burgundy, crafted by a domaine that has long been celebrated for its biodynamic farming and unwavering commitment to terroir expression. The Goisot family farms their vineyards in Saint Bris and Côtes d’Auxerre with extraordinary precision, treating these cooler, limestone rich sites with the same seriousness given to more famous Côte d’Or appellations. Gondonne is one of their standout parcels, a high slope of pure Kimmeridgian limestone mixed with marl, the same ancient marine soils that make Chablis so distinctive. This gives the wine its crystalline mineral edge, vibrant tension and remarkable purity.

The domaine harvests by hand and uses gentle pressing followed by fermentation with indigenous yeasts. Ageing takes place in a mix of stainless steel and older barrels, chosen to keep the wine focused and energetic while adding subtle texture. The result is a Bourgogne Blanc that behaves far above its humble designation, offering the precision of Chablis with the generosity of Côtes d’Auxerre fruit and the elegance that defines everything the Goisot family touches. Their reputation for producing some of Burgundy’s best value whites rests heavily on wines like this.

In the glass it shows a pale lemon colour with green highlights. The nose is fresh, clean and beautifully layered with aromas of lemon zest, green apple, white peach and pear skin supported by notes of crushed oyster shell, wet stone, white flowers, fennel seed and a whisper of almond. As the wine opens, a chalky mineral scent intensifies, echoing the limestone beneath the vines.

The palate is bright, refined and driven by a clear mineral line. Citrus and orchard fruits glide across the tongue with fine acidity that feels both brisk and perfectly balanced. Flavours of lemon, pear and peach merge with subtle hints of hazelnut, flint, herbal lift and saline minerality that lengthens the finish. The texture is beautifully polished with enough mid palate weight to bring harmony without dulling the wine’s natural energy. It finishes long, clean and chalky with lingering citrus and stone fruit purity. This is a superb example of northern Burgundian Chardonnay that combines finesse, freshness and depth.

It pairs wonderfully with seafood dishes such as oysters, scallops, mussels or grilled white fish. It also complements goat cheese, lemon roast chicken, vegetable tarts, herb scented pastas and sushi. Thanks to its mineral structure and balanced acidity it can cellar for six to eight years, gaining roundness and gentle nutty depth while retaining its freshness.