2021 Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany

Smoky, sweet spices join tarry plums, black cherries and a touch of blackberries. Fine, dusty tannins run throughout the palate, with compact dark fruit and a long, caressing finish. Rather exuberant and plush but still well balanced. Drink or hold.

93 points James Suckling

Il Poggione is one of the grand old names of Montalcino, founded by the Franceschi family in the late nineteenth century and still family owned today. The estate lies around Sant’Angelo in Colle in the southern sector of the appellation, with vineyards spread across different elevations. Long serving winemaker Fabrizio Bindocci, now working alongside his son Alessandro, has been central to Il Poggione’s reputation for classical Brunello, traditionally matured and built to age rather than impress for five minutes.

Brunello is 100% Sangiovese, grown here on elevated slopes where the warmer southern position is moderated by altitude and breezes. 2021 is a particularly exciting Montalcino vintage, combining beautifully ripe fruit with freshness, perfume and serious structure. Il Poggione’s traditional maturation in large oak allows that Sangiovese character to remain front and centre. Compared with the more immediately generous 2020, the 2021 feels tighter, more energetic and destined for a long future.

Deep ruby garnet with Morello cherry, wild raspberry and redcurrant followed by violet, dried flowers and blood orange. Fennel, anise and sage emerge with air, then black tea, tobacco and warm earth. The palate is concentrated and beautifully shaped, with pure red fruit driven by vibrant acidity and firm, finely grained tannins. Cherry, orange peel and liquorice become increasingly savoury, carrying into a long finish of tea leaf, spice and mineral detail.

Porcini pappardelle with sage, brown butter and Parmigiano would be magnificent alongside it. Duck with lentils, slow roasted lamb with rosemary, eggplant baked with tomato and pecorino or grilled radicchio with hazelnuts all have enough savoury depth to handle young Brunello. If opening one now, give it several hours in a decanter. Better still, hide a few bottles somewhere cool and forget where you put them.

Cellaring: Drink from 2029 to 2050+.