2021 Kay Brothers Amery Block 6 Shiraz, McLaren Vale

Made from 1.4ha of 1892-planted vines across a diverse soil mix. Winemaker Duncan Kennedy is using more puncheons and less new oak (33% here), with alcohol levels generally reduced. The refinement is palpable, but there’s also a hard-won quality, a sense of tough, hungry soils, ancient vines and manual toil, pinpointing site and evoking history. It’s a thrill, if an intellectual one at first. With ample air, deeper flavours emerge. Dried red cherry, spiced plum, olive, blackberry, goji berry and dry spices in brown cardamom, clove, star anise, mace and black pepper. It’s engagingly dry and sinewy, without the plushness of years past, ferrous tannins wringing out the finish. It’s a stunning wine reflecting confident stewardship and a sense of place. Perhaps not a wine of immediate easy pleasures, but it’s the better for it, and it will age beautifully.

96 points Marc Ellis MW winecompanion.com.au

A traditional winery with a rich history and just over 20ha of priceless old vines; while the white wines have been variable, the red and fortified wines can be very good. Of particular interest is Block 6 Shiraz, made from 120+-year-old vines; both vines and wines are going from strength to strength. Celebrated its 130th anniversary in 2020.