2021 M. Chapoutier Saint Joseph Les Granilites, Rhone Valley

Chapoutier's 2021 Saint-Joseph Les Granilites exhibits some crushed stone and raspberry notes but also a decent amount of cedary pencil shavings. Only medium-bodied and not that charming on the palate, there are plentiful tannins and a touch of hardness on the finish, despite the bulk of the tannins seeming quite silky. There's the sensation of slightly over-steeped tea.

No matter how much time one spends with Michel Chapoutier, he always manages to say something surprising. As an owner of biodynamically farmed properties in the Rhône, a participant in several joint ventures, a proprietor in numerous wine regions, owner of a large négociant business and a former president of Inter Rhône (the region's trade body), he has a global perspective that's probably unmatched in the Rhône.

Interestingly, on my latest visit, Chapoutier mentioned that he believes "Clairette is the real white grape of the south," despite not currently selling any wines that are majority Clairette. Unless those were empty words—not something I normally associate with him—I'd guess that may change going forward.

These reviews are based on several visits with him and his winemaking team over the past couple of years, so they encompass some previously released wines tasted as tank samples as well as current and forthcoming releases.

88-90 points Joe Czerwinski robertparker.com

M. Chapoutier Saint-Joseph Les Granilites is an exceptional Syrah from the northern Rhône Valley, showcasing the elegance and depth characteristic of the Saint-Joseph appellation. Produced by M. Chapoutier, one of the Rhône’s most iconic and innovative winemakers, this wine is a testament to the region’s granite-rich soils, from which it derives its name, “Les Granilites.”

The vineyards for Les Granilites are situated on steep slopes of decomposed granite soils in the heart of Saint-Joseph. These soils, combined with the appellation's continental climate and cooling Rhône River breezes, provide the ideal conditions for crafting Syrah with vibrant freshness, refined structure, and a mineral backbone.

The winemaking process emphasizes terroir expression. Grapes are hand-harvested and destemmed, with fermentation occurring in concrete tanks to preserve purity of fruit. The wine is then aged in French oak barrels, with a small proportion new, for 12-14 months, allowing for the development of complexity and subtle integration of oak.

In the glass, M. Chapoutier Saint-Joseph Les Granilites displays a deep ruby color. The nose is a harmonious bouquet of blackcurrants, blackberries, and plum, layered with notes of violet, black pepper, and a touch of smoked meat. On the palate, it is medium to full-bodied, with silky tannins and a vibrant acidity that frames flavors of dark fruits, graphite, and a hint of spice. The long, elegant finish is underscored by a characteristic granite-derived minerality.

This wine pairs beautifully with roasted lamb, grilled duck breast, or wild mushroom risotto. Its balance and structure make it equally enjoyable in its youth or after cellaring for a decade or more.