2021 Marcarini Barolo Brunate Magnum 1.5L, Piedmont

A super-complex and dark wine that’s restrained and layered. Elegant aromas of subtle black cherries, prunes, earth, minerals, peppermint and balsamic. Full-bodied and full of fruit concentration, with a lot of meat over its bones, firm velvety tannins and a long, refreshing finish that’s detailed and precise. 

99 points James Suckling

Brunate is one of Barolo’s great vineyards, stretching between La Morra and Barolo itself, and capable of producing wines that balance perfume with real underlying power. Marcarini has long been one of the traditional guardians of the appellation, crafting wines with patience and restraint rather than chasing modern polish, and their Brunate has become a classic expression of the site.

The 2021 feels beautifully poised from the outset. Aromatics rise slowly but with real detail, red cherry, crushed raspberry and blood orange wrapped in dried rose, anise and a dusting of spice. There’s a deeper layer underneath too, tobacco leaf, forest floor and something faintly tarry that quietly builds with air.

This has structure, but it never feels heavy handed. Fine, persistent tannins hold everything together, while acidity threads through the wine and keeps it moving with energy. The fruit sits in that classic Nebbiolo register, bright but savoury, and the finish stretches out with spice, tea leaf and a stony mineral edge that lingers beautifully.

This is exactly the sort of Barolo that comes alive with proper food. Slow braised rabbit with herbs would be stunning, but it’s equally compelling with porcini mushroom pappardelle, roasted Jerusalem artichokes with brown butter, or a truffle infused risotto where the earthy flavours lock into the wine’s savoury side.

Still very young and best with a decant if opening now, but it has the balance and depth to evolve effortlessly over the next fifteen to twenty years.

There’s a quiet authority here, a traditional Barolo that doesn’t need to shout, because the vineyard already does enough talking.