2021 Margan Ceres Hill Albarino, Broke Fordwich

2ha block planted 2014; wild fermented. A highly floral bouquet of wild flowers and herbs translates into a vibrant palate, led by a spine of citrussy acidity through to the long finish. Drink now.

94 points James Halliday for Halliday Wine Companion

Lisa and Andrew Margan established their much-loved namesake winery in 1996. Located in the Broke Fordwich subregion on the western side of the Hunter Valley, they farm a substantial 90 hectares across two locations with genuine care for the long-term sustainability of their properties. All wines made on site from estate grown fruit and are characterised by elegant restraint.

The Ceres Hill vineyard is an old grazing paddock purchased by the Margans in 1994. Reimagined through organic and regenerative agricultural principles as a premium vineyard flanked by complex, biodiverse native vegetation and kitchen garden. Starting with a modest two hectares, the area under vines has gradually increased to 16 hectares, with Hunter staples Semillon and Chardonnay leading the way, complemented by smaller areas of Albariño, Barbera, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, each matched to the three types of soils found across the site.