2021 Muller-Catoir Grosses Gewachs Burgergarten Im Breumel Riesling, Pfalz

Still extremely youthful, this 2021 riesling GG is going to take a while to come out of its shell. However, the combination of concentrated citrusy fruit and fresh herb finesse is already very apparent. Bone dry, but beautifully balanced and polished at the very long finish. Drinkable now, but best from 2024.

95 points jamessuckling.com

Müller Catoir Grosses Gewächs Bürgergarten Im Breumel Riesling is a profound, site specific Riesling that sits among the elite dry whites of Germany. The Bürgergarten Im Breumel vineyard lies in the village of Forst in the Pfalz, one of the country’s most revered Riesling addresses. Sheltered by the Haardt Mountains and blessed with abundant sunshine, Pfalz delivers ripeness and generosity, but here the Im Breumel parcel adds a cooler, more mineral driven expression. Basalt and limestone soils give this wine its grip, energy and unmistakable sense of place.

Müller Catoir is one of Germany’s great historic estates, founded in the 18th century and long regarded as a benchmark producer. Today the wines are made with a deep respect for vineyard individuality, low yields and precise, natural winemaking. Grosses Gewächs is Germany’s highest classification for dry Riesling, and this bottling represents the pinnacle of the estate’s work. Everything here is about balance, structure and longevity rather than immediate charm.

In the glass, the wine is tightly coiled and intensely focused. Lime zest, lemon oil and green apple lead, followed by white peach, crushed herbs and a deep stony note that feels almost smoky. With air, subtle floral tones, fennel and a saline edge emerge, adding layers without softening the wine’s core.

On the palate, Müller Catoir Bürgergarten Im Breumel Riesling is powerful yet disciplined. Citrus and stone fruit flavours are carried by firm, mouthwatering acidity and a strong mineral spine. The texture is taut and chalky rather than broad, with remarkable precision through the mid palate. The finish is long, dry and resonant, echoing citrus peel, wet stone and a gentle phenolic grip that promises long life.

This is a Riesling made for serious food and serious cellaring. It pairs beautifully with shellfish, turbot, pork, Asian influenced dishes or refined vegetable cooking. While impressive now with time in the glass, it will reward cellaring over fifteen to twenty years, developing layers of toast, spice and savoury complexity while retaining its drive.

Müller Catoir Grosses Gewächs Bürgergarten Im Breumel Riesling is intellectual, intense and deeply satisfying. A world class dry Riesling that shows why Forst and Müller Catoir remain touchstones for lovers of great white wine.