2021 Nigl Gruner Veltliner Pellingen, Kremstal

Light yellow-green, silver reflections. Delicate orange zest, subtle mango and blossom honey, a hint of ripe melon, underpinned with a mineral touch. Juicy, complex, ripe pear fruit, some papaya, well-integrated acidity, sweet finish, already easy to drink, good ageing potential.

93-95 points falstaff.com

Martin Nigl is a first generation winemaker, beginning in 1985 after convincing his family to keep the fruit from their small quantity of vines and bottle it themselves rather than selling it to the local co-op. The history with grape-growing is not nearly as recent though; the Nigl family has been farming here for over 200 years.

Martin practices sustainable farming, never using herbicides or insecticides, plants cover crops of legumes and herbs, and avoids copper, a mainstay in the biodynamic arsenal, but which he considers detrimental to his vines’ vitality, and harmful to the soil.