2021 Ox Hardy 1891 Ancestor Vines Shiraz, McLaren Vale

This is the first time this wine is a more or less current release, with prior examples having a museum schedule. This saw 15% new French oak, with the balance in seasoned barrels; about two years in total élevage. A wine like this, a reserve, old-vine bottling, can often lean towards opulence and lavish oak, but not so here. There’s an engaging transparency, a transmission of site, of struck rock and kicked earth across blackberry, compressed raspberry and soused black cherries, along with anise, crushed bay leaf and iron. There is an older-school feel. Not the days of plump and power, but rather back further, back to a simpler, truer expression, unfussed, savoury, yet still enveloping. It’s a wine of real poise, presence and sense of place.

97 points Marcus Ellis winecompanion.com.au

From the deep red soils of McLaren Vale comes a Shiraz that carries one of South Australia’s most storied family names. The Hardy legacy stretches back to 1853, and Ox Hardy represents the sixth generation of this remarkable winemaking lineage. The 1891 Ancestor Vines Shiraz honours the family’s historic plantings, drawing fruit from old vine vineyards in McLaren Vale that reflect both heritage and regional strength. Influenced by a Mediterranean climate and cooling sea breezes from Gulf St Vincent, the fruit develops richness while retaining balance and structure.

Deep crimson with inky purple edges, the aromatics are powerful and layered. Blackberry, dark plum and mulberry rise from the glass, joined by notes of dark chocolate, spice and a hint of mocha. There is a subtle savoury edge of dried herbs and earth that adds depth and regional character.

On the palate it is full bodied and concentrated, yet beautifully composed. Ripe dark fruit forms the core, supported by firm, fine grained tannins and balanced acidity. Layers of cocoa, black pepper and well integrated oak unfold through the mid palate, leading to a long, persistent finish marked by richness and depth. It captures the bold personality of McLaren Vale Shiraz while maintaining poise and structure.

Pair with grilled ribeye, slow braised lamb shanks, smoky barbecue dishes or aged cheddar. While impressive in its youth with careful decanting, this Ancestor Vines Shiraz will cellar confidently for fifteen to twenty years, developing further savoury complexity and seamless integration.