2021 Pio Cesare Barolo, Piedmont

This is very powerful and structured, with aromas of black truffles, graphite and hints of dried thyme and cedar. Medium- to full-bodied and chewy yet polished. Hints of terra cotta and dark fruit. The finish goes on and on. March 2024 release. Best after 2028

96 points jamessuckling.com

From a mosaic of historic vineyards across Barolo, Pio Cesare Barolo is a classic, house style expression that captures the breadth and elegance of Nebbiolo in this revered region. The Pio Cesare family, producing wines since 1881, has long been a reference point for traditional Barolo, blending fruit from prized sites to achieve balance, structure and consistency. Calcareous clay and limestone soils, combined with careful ageing in large oak casks, shape a wine that speaks clearly of heritage and place.

A luminous garnet with brick tinges sits in the glass, unmistakably Nebbiolo. Aromas unfold with rose petal, tar and red cherry layered with orange peel, spice, tobacco and a subtle earthy depth. There is a sense of quiet authority here, complex and slowly revealing.

The palate is medium to full bodied and beautifully structured, delivering vibrant red fruit framed by firm, finely grained tannins and bright acidity. Notes of cranberry, liquorice, tea leaf and savoury earth build through the mid palate, leading to a long, persistent finish that feels both powerful and composed. This is a Barolo built for patience, evolving gracefully over fifteen to twenty five years into layers of truffle, dried florals and complex tertiary character.

Braised beef with herbs and red wine, truffle laden pasta shared slowly, or aged Parmigiano broken into shards at the table. A late evening turn to Verdi or Puccini, the wine unfolding with the same sense of drama and inevitability, each layer revealing itself in time.