2021 Place of Changing Winds Harcourt Syrah Organic, Bendigo

Deep red with a tinge of purple and a bouquet that is highly perfumed and emphasising floral/violet and fresh-herb aromas, brooding spices too, while the palate is very full bodied and concentrated, deep and firm, framed in robust tannins. A big strong wine with terrific structure for ageing, the plush fruit balanced perfectly by serious tannins. Impressive shiraz.

96 points Huon Hooke therealreview.com

#1 Of 73 2021 Shiraz from Victoria

Very floral in the perfume, violets and lavender, whiffs of eucalyptus and loads of raspberry, cherry and strawberry, in a fog of scent too. Lots of concentration to taste but with a glossy wash of acidity under the tart red cherry, game meat, dried herbs and white pepper characters. Beautiful flavours, fine, satiny tannins, great extension of flavour, a cool, minty finish. Spot on medium weight fragrant and spicy style.

94 points Mike Bennie winefront.com.au

This is the first Place of Changing Winds release from the soils and climate of Harcourt North in the Bendigo G.I. With its pure, sandy, granite soils and its mild climate, this specific place stands apart from the rest of Bendigo. It’s a vineyard that can grow wines of tremendous perfume and finesse, even if the 2021 is a deeper and more structured release, reflecting the season. The wine underwent almost two years of maturation: one year in neutral wood (barrique through to 1000-litre) and one year in an unlined concrete tank. Bottling was in late February 2023. The result is a wonderfully perfumed, yet layered Syrah with blackcurrant fruit, anise, bay leaf and thyme notes and a super-long, lingering finish. It reminds us of a top Morgon.

Place of Changing Winds is an organic, high-density vineyard located in Bullengarook, a small hamlet in the Macedon Ranges of Victoria. Changing Winds takes its name from the original inhabitants, the Wurundjeri people, who named the place where the vines are currently planted Warekilla (or Place of Changing Winds). This characteristic still holds true today.

Situated at 500 metres above sea level, the ancient soils here are riddled with quartz, quartzite and sandstone and only Pinot Noir and Chardonnay is grown. The vines are planted very closely at a range of densities—from 12,000 to 33,000 vines/ha. The average density is over 15,000 vines/ha. Through decades of research and engagement we have developed our own version of organic practice, a model specifically adapted to our place and our vision. This model is designed to produce wines of the highest possible quality and the maximum expression of place. Our motto: no compromise, no regrets!

We also produce two Syrah cuvées and a 100% Marsanne that come from an organically managed plot of vines in the Heathcote region (about 130 kilometres north of our cellars).

placeofchangingwinds.com.au