2021 Sailor Seeks Horse Huldufolk Chardonnay, Huon Valley

This is an exceptional chardonnay. It’s elegant, powerful, lengthy and more. It tastes of crushed fennel and white peach, nectarine and custard powder, though it also boasts flint and riverstone characters. There are some estery notes on the nose, which then lead into those fennel notes, and perhaps towards cracked wheat as well. All this would be enough but it also has quite wonderful texture, like velvet on rocks. The length of the finish – edged with grapefruit – is the final sealer. The quality of this wine is right up there but, besides, it’s simply a beautiful wine to drink.

96 points Campbell Mattinson winefront.com.au