2021 The Eyrie Vineyards Chasselas Doré, Willamette Oregon

The 2021 Chasselas Doré has inviting aromas of apple pie, honeycomb, hay and mushroom. The light-bodied palate has a concentrated core of spicy fruit, a satiny texture, vibrant acidity and a long, pleasantly grippy finish. Pure and fresh, it will pair widely at the table.

94 points Erin Brooks robertparker.com

Eyrie’s Sisters Vineyard is the lowest site of the estate and is home to seven varieties, including Chasselas. Jason Lett chose this site for his experimental plantings due to its low elevation: the higher you go in the Dundee Hills, the more variety takes a backseat to site expression. For instance, compared to the powerful 260-metre-high Daphne site, at 67 metres, Sisters—with its slightly alluvial silt soils—is a gentler affair, allowing the variety to shine brighter than place.

The Chasselas was a happy accident. One rogue vine was included in a batch of Muscat plantings sent from UC Davis. It was only noticed when a friend of the family, who just happened to be a Swiss vine researcher, noticed the cheeky vine when walking through the vineyard. “Oh, Chasselas!” he exclaimed.  They took cuttings, planted a small block and spent many frustrating years trying to figure out how to make it delicious. Jason finally cracked the code in 2013 when he picked it at 10% potential alcohol rather than 12%―at which the wine was continually underwhelming―and it turned out perfectly: fully ripe and bursting with flavour. The 2021 chimes in at a bright, elegant 11.5% alcohol, lacking for nothing in flavour, texture, weight or sheer enjoyment. This is Chasselas the Eyrie way.