2021 Umani Ronchi Pecorino IGT I Sassi, Abruzzo

Lemons, grapefruits, green apples and rosemary on the nose. It’s fresh, crisp and clean. Medium-bodied with lovely just-ripe fruit. Creamy finish. Drink now.

91 points James Suckling

The Bianchi Bernetti family has guided Umani Ronchi for generations, building one of central Italy's most respected wineries through a commitment to native grape varieties and the distinctive landscapes of Marche and Abruzzo. While the estate is particularly celebrated for its Verdicchio and Montepulciano, Pecorino has become another fascinating part of the story. I Sassi captures the lively, characterful side of this once nearly forgotten variety, which has made a remarkable comeback in the vineyards of central Italy.

Pecorino thrives in the hills of Abruzzo, where altitude, cooling breezes and varied soils help preserve freshness despite the region's warm Mediterranean summers. The grape naturally develops good acidity and an appealing combination of citrus, orchard fruit and savoury herbal notes. The 2021 I Sassi is made in a fresh, fruit driven style, allowing Pecorino's distinctive personality to take centre stage without the distraction of heavy oak.

Bright straw yellow with subtle golden reflections. Aromas of ripe lemon, yellow peach and crisp pear mingle with white flowers, fresh thyme and a hint of fennel. The palate is lively and nicely textured, with juicy citrus, green apple and stone fruit supported by a refreshing mineral edge. A little almond and Mediterranean herb character adds interest, while the finish is clean, gently saline and pleasantly persistent.

Pecorino is a natural companion to seafood, particularly grilled calamari, lemon dressed prawns or whole baked snapper with fennel and herbs. It would also be excellent with zucchini fritters, asparagus risotto or burrata with ripe tomatoes and basil. There's enough texture here to handle richer dishes, but its refreshing acidity makes it particularly appealing at a long summer lunch.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2027