2021 Voyager Estate MJW Chardonnay Organic, Margaret River

The 2021 MJW Chardonnay is a combination of clones 95 and Gin Gin (equal split), and currently shows all the lemongrass, grapefruit and brine on the nose that we'd expect from this vintage. Not overly cool but certainly with some rain at key times, the 2021 season has been fascinating to watch evolve in bottle. The Chardonnays, en masse, have shown a pristine, glassy, sleek countenance, and this here is no different. Polished, elegant, powerful, salty, mineral and dense. Latent power. Very good! If anything, it's a little more raw and a little "less" sleek than some of the previous vintages. It will come together in time and no doubt score higher given the trajectory of these wines and their early release as two-year-old wines. 13% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.

This was a mammoth tasting (44 wines) but well timed, given the appointment of new winemaker Tim Shand, from Yarra Valley's Punt Road. There were several surprises, most of them positive. It was a pleasure to witness seasonal consistency between blocks and across varieties, and to see the older wines, on the whole, looking so good and fresh in 2023. The consistency of the vineyard team and the winemaking team over time has lent the estate an impressive cohesion, meaning the differences between the wines came down to vintages and winemaking methods. On the whole, my visit was an excellent, rare day that provided oversight to the estate akin to nothing I have witnessed before. The highlights were undoubtedly centered around the 2013 and 2014 vintages.

95+ points EL robertparker.com