2021 William Fevre Bougros Chablis Grand Cru, Burgundy

From old vines of around 60-65 years on average. Fresh pale colour with a light green tint. Clear pale colour, slightly smoky, good volume of fruit, the smoke coming out in the mouth as reduction on the seashells. Solid weight here, plus the minerals as well. Pretty good intensity across the piece with density at the back. Drink from 2027-2033. Tasted: June 2022.

91-94 points JM MW insideburgundy.com

The 2021 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros is one of the richer, more gourmand wines in the range, revealing aromas of peach, orange, white flowers and freshly baked bread. Full-bodied, fleshy and ample, it's a broad, mouth-filling Chablis with bright acids and a precise, saline finish. This has turned out especially well.

The 2020 vintage marked the first year of official organic conversion for 78-hectare Domaine William Fèvre, though it's actually the 15th year the estate has been practicing organic, so the team took the challenges of the 2021 vintage in their stride. When I asked Didier Séguier how he managed to farm such a large estate this way, when so many smaller producers balk at the challenge, he explained that part of the secret has been fully engaging the Fèvre team: everyone is trained to spot signs of mildew and disease and share them on a team WhatsApp group; there are even prizes for the most vigilant employees. The approach certainly seems to have paid off in 2021, in any case, delivering wines with an old-school aesthetic but contemporary precision and charm; and the fact that they are bottled under Diam means that their gracious evolution in the cellar is assured. While the 2021s can't quite match the sheer concentration and intensity of 2019 and 2020, their classical profiles and clear differentiation by site will delight Chablis purists.

94 points WK robertparker.com