2022 Alphonse Mellot Sancerre La Moussiere, Loire Valley

Biodynamic. La Moussière is one of the great vineyards of the Loire Valley. Cultivated with incredibly rocky, limestone-rich soils, this gently rolling vineyard lies on ancient Saint-Doulchard marls, which form part of the great Kimmeridgian chain (à la Chablis). Coupled with Mellot’s meticulous biodynamic farming and low yields, this terroir is responsible for some of Sancerre’s most striking and atypical wines.

As usual, 50% of this wine fermented in huge wooden fermenters and was raised in oak casks—a fact that in no way compromises its fabulous purity and energy. The balance fermented and was raised in traditional concrete vats before blending. The wine aged on fine lees for roughly 12 months, further enhancing its famously deep, pulpy texture. Reminiscent of a topflight Chablis, those who crave flesh, purity and tension in their white wines will find great company here. Full of supple nectarine and ripe grapefruit, the wine unfolds on the palate like a coiled white Burgundy. A great La Moussière—is there any other kind?!