2022 Arnaud Baillot Hautes Bourgogne Cotes de Beaune Blanc, Burgundy

Arnaud Baillot and his wife Laure are part of Burgundy’s new generation, establishing their domaine in Beaune after working with fruit sourced from across the Côte d’Or. Laure brings some formidable Burgundian heritage as the granddaughter of Domaine Hudelot Noëllat’s Alain Hudelot, while Arnaud oversees the winemaking. Their range stretches from regional Burgundy through to some very serious Premier and Grand Cru sites, with an emphasis on purity and approachable, modern Burgundy.

The Hautes Côtes de Beaune vineyards sit above the famous Côte de Beaune escarpment, where greater elevation brings cooler temperatures and a longer ripening season. Chardonnay benefits enormously from that freshness, particularly when the aim is elegance rather than sheer richness. The 2022 vintage was warm and generous, giving the wine ripe stone fruit and texture, while the elevated vineyards provide enough acidity to keep everything nicely shaped.

Bright straw gold with white peach, ripe pear and nectarine followed by lemon and grapefruit. Fresh almond and hazelnut add a savoury note, with gentle toast and a little crushed stone underneath. The palate is supple and rounded, carrying stone fruit and citrus through the middle before fresh acidity tightens the frame. Lemon peel, almond and subtle mineral notes linger through a clean, savoury finish.

Crab linguine with lemon, parsley and a little chilli would suit its combination of fruit and freshness beautifully. Grilled scallops, roast snapper with fennel, chicken with tarragon or a leek and Comté tart have enough richness to meet the Chardonnay without overwhelming it. At four years old, it should be settling into a particularly comfortable drinking spot.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2031.