2022 Bekkers Grenache, McLaren Vale

Very deep, almost opaque purple-red colour; smoky reductive and earthy aromas, a funky trace of reduction and pepper/spice nuances. The wine is full-bodied and rich, sweet fruited and opulent, lavish fruit flavours of earthy ironstone, graphite and tar in amongst the ripe blackberry, raspberry and dark cherry fruits. Some warmth of alcohol and a very long-lasting finish that is thoroughly dried by the powdery tannins. 13 Mar 2025 Drink 2026–2038

96 points Huon Hooke therealreview.com

From five sites, three in Blewitt Springs and one each in Kangarilla and the Onkaparinga Hills. About 27% whole bunches; maturation in mainly older French puncheons and some concrete. This is a tick headier than the general grenache zeitgeist, but it is nonetheless a thoroughly modern iteration – just a thoroughly individual one. Whorls of wild red fruits and exotic spices peel off on the nose with a complex fretwork of minerals, iron-like and silty, gravelly, almost slatey in a way. Wild cherry, clove-studded orange, black cherry juice, damson plum, angelica and freshly ground white pepper. It closes with a little warmth, but it is no distraction, the finish lithe, spicy and vibrant.

95 points Marcus Ellis winecompanion.com.au

Bekkers Grenache from McLaren Vale is a masterclass in elegance and restraint, a wine that redefines what Australian Grenache can be. Crafted by the husband-and-wife duo Toby and Emmanuelle Bekkers, this is a wine born from deep regional knowledge, sensitive viticulture and a minimalist French-influenced winemaking philosophy. It’s not about power for its own sake — it’s about purity, texture and finesse.

The fruit comes from dry-grown bush vines in Blewitt Springs and Seaview, two of the most prized subregions in McLaren Vale for Grenache. Blewitt Springs offers sandy soils and elevation, which contribute perfume and silken tannins, while Seaview brings structure and depth from its ironstone and clay. These old vines are tended with precision under organic and biodynamic principles, ensuring that only the healthiest, most expressive fruit makes it to the winery.

In the cellar, Emmanuelle — a Bordeaux-trained winemaker — takes a gentle approach. Fermentation occurs in small open vessels, often with a portion of whole bunches to build aromatic lift and textural grip. Oak is used sparingly and judiciously, with maturation in large format French oak to preserve the integrity of the fruit.

In the glass, Bekkers Grenache is pure and fragrant, with lifted aromas of red cherry, blood orange, rose petal and exotic spices. The palate is medium-bodied and supple, with seamless tannins and a silky flow, carrying flavours of raspberry, crushed herbs and a savoury mineral edge that lingers long after the last sip. There’s a lightness of touch here that speaks to great winemaking and extraordinary fruit.

Pair it with slow-roasted duck with five spice, Moroccan lamb with pomegranate and mint, or grilled eggplant with tahini and za’atar. It’s drinking beautifully now but will evolve gracefully over 8 to 12 years.