2022 Bodegas Exopto Rioja El Bernate de Exopto, Rioja

This single-vineyard white is one of the most exciting white wines we have tasted from Spain. Period. It comes from a vineyard of the same name, a tiny plot of 80-year-old Malvasía Riojana rooted in the highland limestone soils of San Vicente de la Sonsierra. To preserve what Tom calls “the mineral and citric character that this variety can develop in limestone soils of Rioja Alta”, it spends two weeks on skins and ferments with indigenous yeasts in a 950-litre concrete egg, where it also matured for one year before bottling. 

Bodegas Exopto El Bernate de Exopto Blanco is a rare and beautifully textured white Rioja, showcasing the elegance and complexity of the region’s traditional white varieties. Crafted by Bordeaux native Tom Puyaubert, who founded Bodegas Exopto in 2003, this wine reflects a modern approach to Rioja while staying true to its rich winemaking heritage. Sourced from high-altitude, old-vine vineyards in Rioja Alavesa, El Bernate de Exopto Blanco is a field blend dominated by Viura, complemented by Malvasía and Garnacha Blanca. These indigenous varieties thrive in the region’s limestone-rich soils, producing a wine with freshness, depth, and aging potential.

Pale gold in the glass, this white Rioja offers an enticing bouquet of white peach, citrus blossom, and ripe pear, layered with hints of honeysuckle, almond, and wet stone. The palate is textured and vibrant, featuring flavors of green apple, Meyer lemon, and melon, balanced by a creamy mouthfeel from time on lees. A touch of oak aging lends subtle notes of toasted hazelnut and spice without overpowering the wine’s purity. The finish is long and mineral-driven, leaving a lingering impression of citrus zest and saline freshness.

This wine pairs beautifully with seafood paella, grilled octopus, or roast chicken with herbs. Its depth and acidity also make it a great match for creamy cheeses, truffle risotto, and lightly spiced dishes. While highly enjoyable now, El Bernate de Exopto Blanco has the potential to develop further complexity over the next 5–8 years, gaining richer textures and nutty nuances.

Bodegas Exopto has gained critical acclaim for its innovative yet terroir-driven approach to Rioja, consistently earning praise for both its reds and whites.