2022 Christian Moreau Les Clos Chablis Grand Cru, Burgundy

(from a huge, and single, 2.9 ha parcel). Moderate wood is present on the overtly floral-suffused nose of mostly white fleshed fruit, especially pear and apple, along with notes of citrus confit, acacia and oyster shell whiffs. There is excellent richness and concentration to the markedly powerful larger-scaled flavors that coat the palate on the overtly stony, dry and compact finale. At least moderate patience will be required as this is pretty tightly wound.

92-95 points Allen Meadows burghound.com October 2023

The 2022 Christian Moreau Les Clos Chablis Grand Cru is a commanding yet refined expression from one of Chablis’ most iconic vineyards. The Moreau family has been rooted in Chablis since 1814, and today Christian and his son Fabien continue the tradition, crafting wines that marry precision, depth and age-worthy structure. Les Clos is the largest and most famous of the seven Chablis Grands Crus, celebrated for its south-facing slopes of Kimmeridgian limestone that yield wines of intensity, complexity and remarkable longevity.

The 2022 vintage was generous and balanced, producing fruit with excellent ripeness while retaining the hallmark freshness of Chablis. Grapes from Les Clos are hand-harvested and vinified with meticulous care, fermented partly in stainless steel to preserve purity and partly in oak for texture and complexity. Ageing on fine lees enhances the wine’s depth and brings an elegant creaminess to balance its mineral core.

In the glass, the wine shows pale gold with green reflections. The bouquet is layered and sophisticated, offering lemon zest, pear and white peach alongside honeysuckle, oyster shell and a flinty edge. On the palate it is full-bodied yet finely structured, with citrus and orchard fruits wrapped in a firm mineral backbone. Vibrant acidity drives the wine, while lees ageing adds creaminess and length. The finish is long, saline and persistent, a classic signature of Les Clos.

Food pairings call for dishes of equal refinement: lobster with drawn butter, Dover sole, scallops with saffron cream, or vegetarian options such as truffle risotto or roasted cauliflower with almonds. With 15 to 20 years of cellaring potential, it will develop notes of honey, hazelnut and toast while retaining its mineral freshness, making it a wine for collectors and connoisseurs alike.