2022 Clos Mogador, Priorat

Their single-vineyard 2022 Clos Mogador, they flagship wine, was produced with a blend of grapes, mostly Garnacha and Cariñena but also some Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon (less and less, as they are regrafting most of them). It has a very Mediterranean nose with plenty of dry hay and straw notes, the classical wet slate notes, very Priorat too, and it has a round palate and very fine, chalky tannins. It's serious and harmonious and feels relaxed, without any excess. It comes in at 14% alcohol with 5.4 grams of acidity and a bone-dry finish. None of the 2022s showed excess heat or ripeness. The alcohol is contained and integrated, and the wines are balanced and harmonious but with a more Mediterranean profile.

97 points Luis Gutiérrez, The Wine Advocate

Clos Mogador is one of the wines that changed the fortunes of Priorat. René Barbier arrived in the region in the late 1970s and, alongside a small band of equally determined growers, helped revive an ancient wine landscape that had been largely forgotten. The first Clos Mogador appeared with the 1989 vintage, and the estate went on to become one of the defining names of modern Priorat. Today the next generation of the Barbier family is increasingly involved, but the connection between family, vineyard and this rugged corner of Catalunya remains at its heart.

The estate forms a dramatic amphitheatre of steep terraces outside Gratallops, with vines rooted in Priorat’s famous llicorella, the fractured slate soils that define the region. Garnatxa and Carinyena sit at the heart of the blend, joined by Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. The hot, dry 2022 season produced considerable concentration, but old vines, altitude and those poor slate soils give Clos Mogador the structure and freshness to carry its power. This is serious Priorat, built for the cellar rather than immediate gratification.

Deep garnet crimson, with blackberry, black cherry and ripe raspberry emerging first, followed by violet and dried rose. Liquorice, fennel, rosemary and black olive sit underneath, with graphite, cocoa, smoked spice and crushed slate appearing as it opens. The palate is dense and expansive without becoming cumbersome, its dark fruit held by firm, beautifully shaped tannins and a persistent line of acidity. Black cherry, anise, bitter chocolate and mineral notes gather towards a long, powerful and savoury finish.

Slow cooked lamb shoulder with rosemary and garlic would be magnificent, alongside charcoal grilled beef with romesco, duck with black olives, smoky eggplant with chickpeas and tahini or wild mushroom paella. Our pick is the paella, loaded with mushrooms, roasted peppers and saffron, with the slightly smoky socarrat underneath. Give the bottle a good decant if opening it young.

Cellaring: Drink from 2028 to 2045+.